Camber and Caster adjusting?

[BoostedB16]

Recently lowered my car With sportlines and went in for an alignment. After a couple mins at the shop the guy came back and said the got the toe all set but i needed special bolts that go to the struts to be able to adjust the camber and caster. He also mentioned they could only do the front since the back is a solid axle.

Anyone else deal with this?

Where can i get these bolts for my car?

Car---2011 spec v

[MGW]

Hey bud, eibach has them. If you search the sport lines or pro kit on there site it will recommend you get them. Click on em and order away. He is right about the front and rear.

[BoostedB16]

Hey bud, eibach has them. If you search the sport lines or pro kit on there site it will recommend you get them. Click on em and order away. He is right about the front and rear.

Thanks will do

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

[vc3qsym]

I got the bolts at the local parts store here. Adjusted the front

[BoostedB16]

I got the bolts at the local parts store here. Adjusted the front

Sweet gonna go today and see if they got em here

Thanks

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

[vc3qsym]

No problem

[CANMAN]

How is everyone adjusting the toe etc on the rear with the solid beam when you lower? Or is there no way at all to adjust and deal with camber/toe wear???

[OduSpecV]

I don't think so for the rear, but for the front is easy.

B16 Camber Correction Kit - Ingals / Eibach, same thing.

[MGW]

As far as I know, there isn't a way to adjust the rear, except maybe shims.

someone with more suspension knowledge will chime in.

[yogi b]

ingals for the best in camber bolts

when they mention this need for camber adjustment do they tell you what the present camber is?

many times the spring manufacturer will engineer in a slight decrease in camber, to say -1 degrees
this induced neg camber up to 1.5 degrees can actually increase handling levels and have very little influence on tire wear.
toe in is critical to tire wear, dropping the car far enough to get 1.5* neg camber will produce toe out, intolerable for long tire wear

it's toe out that causes extreme wear not slight neg camber

the rear axle can be bent to provide more neg camber and adjust toe

both the b15 and b16 share the solid beam rear end [semi-independent]
mine was bent at 1st to 1.2* neg camber and stock rear toe in


for high performance street use
try slight neg camber and up to 0* toe in [increased wear, but terrific response] and watch how differently your sentra responds
these cars are very sensitive to toe adjustments, use small changes till you get what you like
for racing purposes the slightest amount [1/4*] of toe out, will remarkably change turn in, on curve entry

for the dragracers with skinny rear wheels 1/8" toe in will make the car much more stable at high speed

shims for the b16 are supposedly usable on the rear
but i have never seen them

[CANMAN]

So yogi you sound real knowledgeable on the suspension. This is the first time I have dealt with the solid rear axle. So if you were to lower the car on just springs, the drop of say 1.5 inches the rear toe is going to be off on an alignment. With that being said your saying the only way to correct is to bend the axle? I don't even know of anywhere that would think about doing that to get the car back to factory alignment specs but i also don't wanna be burning out tires every 6 months.

[BlackoutV]

So yogi you sound real knowledgeable on the suspension. This is the first time I have dealt with the solid rear axle. So if you were to lower the car on just springs, the drop of say 1.5 inches the rear toe is going to be off on an alignment. With that being said your saying the only way to correct is to bend the axle? I don't even know of anywhere that would think about doing that to get the car back to factory alignment specs but i also don't wanna be burning out tires every 6 months.

how is the rear toe going to be off? everything is solid in the rear, so nothing will change. the only thing that happens, is if you lower it a significant amount, the rear beam will shift slightly to the side. Theres a link called thte "qt link" that will replace the pivot link in the rear beam, and it is adjustable, so it allows you to compensate for the beam shifting. Toe is not affected at all in the rear, nor is camber. I've been lowered about 1.5 inches for about 2 years and i haven't modified my rear beam at all and my tire wear is perfect on the rear tires.

[MGW]

Might be something with the B16, had the pro kit installed and was told the toe was off a bit in the rear. Maybe false info.

[CANMAN]

Ok gotcha blackout, I was not aware, like I said have never dealt with a solid beam suspension on the rear like this. My previous car was a 2006 Civic Si so I just had adjustable rear camber arms and was perfectly in factory specs.

After I got my Spec like a month later I hit a huge pothole that was unavoidable. Blew out my tire etc etc. Well the city paid for it and on my last alignment here were my readings:

Rear Total Toe: 0.57 degrees

Left Rear Camber= -1.8
Toe: 0.20

Right Rear Camber= -1.2
Toe" 0.38

Naturally the guy said there was nothing he could do about it but obvious something in the rear moves because it doesnt match the left side. The right front was out 1.03 toe but they were able to get it to 0.00 but the camber is still -2.2

[MGW]

You're only options I know of are,

1. Have a shop not dealer install shims
2. Replace the beam, which may not change anything
3. Bend the Beam, as Barry mentioned.
4. Rotate the crap out of your tires.

The B16 was manugactured with toe in. The dealer will tell you there is nothing that can be done.

Borrowed this from another site, hopefully it is useful:

"Many Nissan Sentra rear axles are mismanufactured with a huge toe in.
Nissan actively discourages/forbids delearships to put in shims to correct the rear alignment.
Specific Nissan Sentra calibrated shims can be obtained from rockauto or NAPA. Look under suspension parts. Shims are about $13 each.
There is significant negative camber by specification on the rear so tires should be rotated.
If the rear tires show a diagonal wear pattern then it is toe misalignment. See Honda Service bulletin 08-001 for pictures and Honda's fix for a similar problem.
Changing the rear axle does not fix the problem and the dealer will refuse to do further work to fix the problem. It becomes the customer's problem.
Working with the dealer is a worthless waste of time. After their repair, my "front" alignment was way out and the alignment sheet that I received a copy of was proven to be horribly incorrect.
Nissan does not provide repair instructions for rear toe alignment nor are their Nissan part numbers for the shims.
Warranty for adjustable alignment is only 12K miles. For defective parts like the axle it is 36K miles
Find a good repair shop with a John Beam optical alignment system and bite the bullet and get Nissan's poor quality repaired"

[BlackoutV]

damn that must've been a big pothole you hit. your camber on the front is -2.2? holy shit how is that even possible. sounds like something is bent....or your car is really low. yeah they may be able to shim the rear beam? im honestly not sure where they shim it...but yeah it sounds like something might be bent back there too. sry man, good luck fixing it. solid rear beam FTL.

[CANMAN]

Thats what I was thinking blackout, that something has to be bent. When you look at the car head on you can see the passenger front wheel is definately slanted inwards like / and the driver side is almost completely vertical. I ordered the camber bolts which the alignment guy said should fix the problem but both them and Nissan want like 300 dollars to install the 25 dollar bolts lol, they said there is some drilling of new holes or something involved.

To be honest I have been keeping an eye on it and rotating the tires ever 5K miles, haven't seen any issues yet but it is something I want to get fixed eventually......

[BlackoutV]

if you're at -2.2 degres of camber...idk if the bolts allow adjustments for that much. something is definitely bent man.....camber bolts are just a bandaid for the problem.

[vc3qsym]

I was around -1.2 and they were able to get me back to specs

[BlackoutV]

I was around -1.2 and they were able to get me back to specs

usually camber bolts are good from 0 to -1.5 degres. you fell within that range, but he doesnt unfortunately....unless im wrong and they'll be able to adjust the camber by that much.