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I tore into this job yesterday and got as far as getting the big 19mm bolts out of the transmission, but I couldn't get a socket or wrench on bolts that hold the bracket that mounts to the car body.

The rubber on the mount is completely broken so it's definitely bad and I'm going to have another crack at it this weekend. It looks like the mount can just slide out, except the transmission is in the way. Is it just a matter of removing the lower mount to let the transmission drop low enough to get the upper mount out?
I had another go at this job today and got it changed out. Here are the highlights for anyone looking for info:
First, you have to pull the battery, air cleaner box, the computer module that sits right behind the battery, the bracket that this computer module mounts to, a couple pieces of the the air intake tubes and the bracket that holds the other computer module that sits in front of and below the battery. You'll figure this out as you go along, but these are the main things I can remember having to remove on the driver's side of the engine compartment.

There are two options for replacing the mount. You can 1.) replace only the part that bolts to the transmission; or 2.) replace as an assembly the mount with the bracket that bolts to the body of the car. The two pictures below show each option:

Option #1
Option #2
Option #1 is (potentially) the least expensive. I found the part online for ~$30. The disadvantage is you then have to use a hydraulic press to assemble this part to the larger bracket that mounts to the body of the car. Because of this, removal of larger bracket is required. Since you have to remove the larger bracket in either option, you're not saving any time with Option #1. Also, if you don't have access to a hydraulic press, you'll have to take it somewhere to have the smaller bracket pressed into the larger bracket. I have a guy I use that charged me $20. YMMV. I also didn't have access to a second car, so I had to Uber my way to and from the machine shop.

For Option #2, I found the part online for $120, so there's a significant difference in price, but there are two advantages to Option #2. First, it's faster. You can install the new part as soon as you remove the old one, whereas you would have to take the time to assemble the old and new parts with Option #1. Also, the guy I had assemble them for me said as he was pressing the parts together, he could see the larger bracket starting to stress and was concerned about the bracket splitting apart, so that's a potential extra expense.

Moving on, I removed the passenger side motor mount and the lower driver side transmission mount just to make sure the engine and transmission would drop low enough to get to all of the bolts that hold the larger bracket to the body of the car. To remove the passenger mount, you have to get the overflow tank out of the way (one 10mm nut) and remove the intake manifold cover (two 10mm bolts on top then pull the front edge straight up).

Before removing the bracket bolts, I would support the engine/transmission with a jack and then remove the two huge bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission. Then you can lower the engine/transmission down and let it rest on the frame of the car.

There are three bolts that you have to get to from the bottom through the wheel well. Because the pic above of the bracket is shown upside down, the top three holes in the pic are where these three bolts go. To get at these, you'll have to remove the left front tire and the plastic cover in the front of the wheel well that covers the end of the transmission. (You need to remove this cover anyway to get at the lower transmission mount.) Once the cover is off, you can then see the three lower bracket bolts. I used a box end wrench to loosen them. There are four more bracket bolts that you have to remove from up top. Two are horizontal like the three on the bottom and two (that you can't see in the pic above) are vertical. I used a socket with a wobble extension and another 6" straight extension connected to a ratchet in order to get the additional two horizontal bolts. With the engine/transmission dropped all the way down, I was just barely able to get this socket/extension/ratchet arrangement to work. The two vertical bolts are easily accessible from top down.

From there the bracket/mount assembly will come right out. Then it's just a matter of doing everything in reverse.

If I were to do this job again, I would definitely go with Option #2. I spent an extra 90 minutes on the pressing-the-mount-to-the-bracket function and between the machine shop and Uber, I only saved myself about $50. If you have a hydraulic press with a large enough anvil, I'd say it's a toss-up considering the risk of splitting the bracket.

Just an update. I ended up having to do this job again. I think when the guy pressed the two parts together last time, he pressed on the rubber 'cone' piece and compromised it, causing it to fail in just about 18 months (it had been making noise for several months before I replaced it again).

This time I bought the whole assembly from Amazon for $111, and had it here in 5 days. ... UTF8&psc=1

This time, I had forgotten about lowering the transmission down all the way to rest on the frame, so I ended up getting 4 (instead of 3) of the 5 horizontal bolts from underneath through the wheel well. I made a video this time and will put it up on youtube.
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