Moderators: B17 Moderator, B16 Moderator

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By HyBr1D
#246157
Without further ado, here is the write-up on retrofitting projectors onto a B16 headlamp (This applies to other cars as well just for obvious reason some specifics will be for the B16).

Things you will need;
-2 flat head screw drivers (or any other prying tool(s)).
-Philips head screw driver.
-Heatgun (Or an oven if you feel more comfortable baking your lamps)
-Dremel
-JB Weld Epoxy
-2" Spring Clamps
-Power Drill
-3/4" & 1" drill bit
-Compressed Air Can(s)
-Shop-like Vacuum
-High Temp paint (of your desired color scheme) ***Rustoleum or VHT***
-U-Pol Clear (If you want some glossy tones)
-600 grit sandpaper
-Retro Rubber Resealing Glue (TRS)
-AND LOTS OF PATIENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Parts used;
-Panamara Switchback LED DRL Shrouds
-Morimoto Mini 4.0 D2S Bi-Xenon Projectors
-DEPO Aftermaket SE-R/Spec V Headlamps

*NOTE - ONLY BUY DEPO HEADLAMPS, other brands like Eagle Eye are garbage for retrofits!*
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First off you mark the stock alignment before removing everything, it would be best to buy an extra set if anything goes wrong or if you'd rather test them side by side. Mark the light pattern with blue painters tape.

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Then you want to remove all added metal parts and wiring from the headlamp.

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After all removable parts are off locate the tabs around the lamp and untab them with your hand or a flat head screw driver.

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Then use the heat gun to heat certain parts of the lamp and begin prying the areas gently using your pry tool (flat head). I recommend starting at the lower inner edge first and working your way towards the amber reflector and upward towards the indicator corner.

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The frame will be lodged in the lense due to the adhesive.

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**NOTE** Be careful will removing the lens not to let any of the adhesive fall in the reflector or on the lens it is a pain to clean (not speaking from personal experience).


The red circles indicate the screws holding down the indicator reflector and the green is the plastic lens that goes in front of the reflector. You can remove it all for painting purposes depending on your color scheme if not you can just remove the clear lens and paint away.

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Now remove the stock bulb shield. (pliers can be used to remove it but I used my hand and friction and it pops right out)

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Next drill a hole about an inch to run your desired cables through the housing to the back... mine is more simple which is just the Panamera DRL/Switchback LED's and the Hi-beam solenoid cables. If you add halos or demon eyes you will need a bigger hole :P

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Now, size the projectors bulb inlet to the housing (both sides) where the stock bulb would be to then start dremeling. Remember I used a Mini 4.0 D2S, this doesn't apply to all TRS projectors, I hear the Mini H1's are easier to install and align. They're more plug and play and the overall size of the rear of the projector is smaller so it'll sit more flush than mine. (Inward to the stock housing)

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Then begin to dremel the sucker and test fit (rinse and repeat till desired size)

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Now, this again applies mainly to this type or projector. I had to focus on these circled legs of the bulb holder because it won't let the locking nut use enough thread to feel secure. So, I had to dremel it down a lot to make sure it is properly secured and leveled.

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After the test fit, it's time for primer and painting. This is what I used...

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Added high-gloss to the indicator

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Now it's time for another test fit and running the cables after everything dries. (Best to wait a full day *24HRS* to let paint cure to start messing with it again)

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Start testing everything for functionality... make sure the DRL/Blinker/Solenoid works and start leveling the projector (rotational alignment).

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Last edited by HyBr1D on Wed Mar 28, 2018 9:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
#246158
After you have the rotational alignment down add the JB Welding Epoxy to the back where your thread the locking nut to secure the projector in place so it won't move from where you've set it. Let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes (or longer if you want to feel more secure about it). Then, it's time to start putting everything together. Use the Retro Rubber Butyl Glue which is top notch from what I read. Start stretching and lining the adhesive to where the old glue was then line up the frame inside the lens and line everything up with the housing. Gently lay it over and begin to heat up the lamp piece by piece. Apply pressure and when it's in use the 2" Clamps to hold the pressure firmly as you move ahead.

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***NOTE*** the clamps won't grab at all areas of the lamp so at times you will have to hold it for a minute or two to assure it's sealed.

Here's a comparison

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And both together.

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#246172
powderohyeah wrote:What a great write up! thanks alot for doing this, very detailed and easy to read. I’m going to start this project soon.


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eXcude wrote:NIce work man, very good info in here.


I do it for you guys! Gotta help the Sentra community as much as I can... (or what's left of it) :P
#246174
Wow bro those really came out awesome! Very nice write up to btw. Those pictures are hugh... noone gonna complain they cant see anything lol. :thumbup:

Scale from 1 to 10, 1 being easiest, how would rate the difficulty of this for first timers?

I also noticed you blacked out the reflectors on the corners of the headlights. Though it looks good, noone can see your car parked at night from the front. Aren't you worried about being put at fault if someone were to hit your car?
#246181
Mbrice420 wrote:Wow bro those really came out awesome! Very nice write up to btw. Those pictures are hugh... noone gonna complain they cant see anything lol. :thumbup:

Scale from 1 to 10, 1 being easiest, how would rate the difficulty of this for first timers?

I also noticed you blacked out the reflectors on the corners of the headlights. Though it looks good, noone can see your car parked at night from the front. Aren't you worried about being put at fault if someone were to hit your car?


I'd say for a first timer it would be around a 6... others who normally are not do-it-your-selfers would be closer to 10. The Mini 4.0 is larger in general than that of the plug-n-play models Mini H1's and I went with 3" projector so the D2S housing was bigger than a 2.5" H1 version. I didn't want to get a kit and wanted legit D2S bulbs.

As for the parking reflectors, on my old U13 I removed "shaved" them off too and never had parking issues.. I could just park head first and that issue goes away but for some reason people never hit the car back in the day. Funny thing is, my car get's hit now even with the amber reflectors in place... so, it'll make no difference... I roll amongst idiots my friend.
#246563
Here is what I'm working on for my Sentra at the moment.... I was originally going with just a single projector, but came across a free set of broken Acura ilx headlights... Couldn't let them go to waste, just had to try... Work in progress...

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#246566
10sen wrote:Here is what I'm working on for my Sentra at the moment.... I was originally going with just a single projector, but came across a free set of broken Acura ilx headlights... Couldn't let them go to waste, just had to try... Work in progress...


Looks good bro. :thumbup:
Can't wait to see the finished product
#246577
I originally wanted to bolt them in, but it was just so much easier to aim them and glue them. I used some 3M glue and then some JB weld putty and original JB weld for added security. They are a bit on the inner side, but that's where they ended up when i was aiming them. I may redo it next summer and cut into the stock reflector and move it over a bit.

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#246581
I am also trying to add these into the mix (also from the acura headlights..,) possibly as the DRL's as I'm from Canada, and will have the regular bulb in there for the turn signals via switchback function. So if my wiring is correct, they should turn off when the turn signals are triggered and turn back on when the turn signals are off. Typical switchback function... The led driver I'll be using has two power wires, one for the DRL and one for the parking lights, it should work I hope :D

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