Things you will need;
-2 flat head screw drivers (or any other prying tool(s)).
-Philips head screw driver.
-Heatgun (Or an oven if you feel more comfortable baking your lamps)
-JB Weld Epoxy
-2" Spring Clamps
-3/4" & 1" drill bit
-Compressed Air Can(s)
-High Temp paint (of your desired color scheme) ***Rustoleum or VHT***
-U-Pol Clear (If you want some glossy tones)
-600 grit sandpaper
-Retro Rubber Resealing Glue (TRS)
-AND LOTS OF PATIENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-Panamara Switchback LED DRL Shrouds
-Morimoto Mini 4.0 D2S Bi-Xenon Projectors
-DEPO Aftermaket SE-R/Spec V Headlamps
*NOTE - ONLY BUY DEPO HEADLAMPS, other brands like Eagle Eye are garbage for retrofits!*
First off you mark the stock alignment before removing everything, it would be best to buy an extra set if anything goes wrong or if you'd rather test them side by side. Mark the light pattern with blue painters tape.
Then you want to remove all added metal parts and wiring from the headlamp.
After all removable parts are off locate the tabs around the lamp and untab them with your hand or a flat head screw driver.
Then use the heat gun to heat certain parts of the lamp and begin prying the areas gently using your pry tool (flat head). I recommend starting at the lower inner edge first and working your way towards the amber reflector and upward towards the indicator corner.
The frame will be lodged in the lense due to the adhesive.
**NOTE** Be careful will removing the lens not to let any of the adhesive fall in the reflector or on the lens it is a pain to clean (not speaking from personal experience).
The red circles indicate the screws holding down the indicator reflector and the green is the plastic lens that goes in front of the reflector. You can remove it all for painting purposes depending on your color scheme if not you can just remove the clear lens and paint away.
Now remove the stock bulb shield. (pliers can be used to remove it but I used my hand and friction and it pops right out)
Next drill a hole about an inch to run your desired cables through the housing to the back... mine is more simple which is just the Panamera DRL/Switchback LED's and the Hi-beam solenoid cables. If you add halos or demon eyes you will need a bigger hole
Now, size the projectors bulb inlet to the housing (both sides) where the stock bulb would be to then start dremeling. Remember I used a Mini 4.0 D2S, this doesn't apply to all TRS projectors, I hear the Mini H1's are easier to install and align. They're more plug and play and the overall size of the rear of the projector is smaller so it'll sit more flush than mine. (Inward to the stock housing)
Then begin to dremel the sucker and test fit (rinse and repeat till desired size)
Now, this again applies mainly to this type or projector. I had to focus on these circled legs of the bulb holder because it won't let the locking nut use enough thread to feel secure. So, I had to dremel it down a lot to make sure it is properly secured and leveled.
After the test fit, it's time for primer and painting. This is what I used...
Added high-gloss to the indicator
Now it's time for another test fit and running the cables after everything dries. (Best to wait a full day *24HRS* to let paint cure to start messing with it again)
Start testing everything for functionality... make sure the DRL/Blinker/Solenoid works and start leveling the projector (rotational alignment).