HawkFanSE-R wrote:So i did this today and a couple things i noticed right away was throatier intake sound/exhaust. good things. One odd thing i did notice was my idle is now roughly 100RPM higher than before. Anyone else notice this when they did this? Heres a pic...
eXcude wrote:I know this is an old post, but I stumbled upon it looking up info on the B16 Spec-V intakes. I wasn't getting any good answers to this so last weekend I took my factory intake setup apart for an analysis. As mentioned before that 'upper resonator' doesn't really seem to be doing much harm to the air flow, looks like it's doing something important. A closer look reveals that 'snorkel' thingy going to the front of the hood is the biggest restriction in conjunction with that resonator hiding in the wheel well it connects to. That snorkel piece has multiple air pockets as well as a hole in the bottom I can imagine it not helpful with airflow. I guess my conclusion is the simplest way to theoretically 'get the most out of your Stock Air Box' would be to pop the snorkel off. Pretty much creating a ghetto knock-off the of the K&N Typhoon.
Another thing I found interesting was the K&N and Injen intakes employ this upper box as well, so guessing that these $300+ systems were engineered to utilize it, maybe it's a good idea to not touch it. If anyone had the time and nerdy fortitude to actually do a dyno on deleting this upper box before and after, My money would say the loss would be negligible. For what it's worth I popped the snorkel out and I'm evaluating the differences, not feeling any more 'power' but there is a noticeable grunt at WoT that sounds fairly badass.
Also I've had experience with 'homemade' intakes in the past, removing the vacuum/PCV lines and replacing with one of those breathers didn't work out so well. At first everything seems like sunshine and rainbows, but over time things start acting funny.
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