2007-2012
User avatar
By eXcude
#246700
I'm going to assess my body condition around 150k miles and determine if I want to rebuild and blow this thing. Pickup the HLSD tranny while I'm at it :D

Parts are like $7400, cheaper than a new car.
By Alen
#246701
HyBr1D wrote:I'm still considering employing Joe's services with a fully built QR25DE+6MT then boosting it... it's some money, but I think it's worth it for 2020 :P


My car would have been running years ago if it wasn't for 2J and their shoddy work

I am on engine build #2, with 2J having done the first build, and that engine received 0 miles of use
By Alen
#246702
eXcude wrote:I'm going to assess my body condition around 150k miles and determine if I want to rebuild and blow this thing. Pickup the HLSD tranny while I'm at it :D

Parts are like $7400, cheaper than a new car.


Just make sure you do it correct the first time round, and don't cheap out on quality parts. If it takes 2 years to slowly gather parts, so be it
User avatar
By eXcude
#246703
#246704
joe only does assembly
engines are built elsewhere

buy the engine from a race builder
like proline
https://www.prolineracing.net/blogs/engines

thats where my short block comes from

expect to pay between 4k and 8k for a turbo long block

mine was $4600


this has been my longest lasting engine
and the most powerful as well

Joe did the turbo kit, meth install, 5 tunes and engine installation and removal
as well as the track setup .alignment, wheel and chassis balance, and suspension mods

the whole car was redone
4 years ago

chassis was redone this fall
aimed at track rather than drags
User avatar
By eXcude
#246705
I'm not looking to build the most powerful car evar, I think it would be great with 300wHP. Safe level of boost for a lil extra smile when I drive. :)
#246706
Alen wrote:
eXcude wrote:I'm going to assess my body condition around 150k miles and determine if I want to rebuild and blow this thing. Pickup the HLSD tranny while I'm at it :D

Parts are like $7400, cheaper than a new car.

[color=#FF0000]
Just make sure you do it correct the first time round, and don't cheap out on quality parts
[/color]. If it takes 2 years to slowly gather parts, so be it


amen

i prefer at least the short block be professionally built

that includes micro polished , shot peened crank
cp, je, or mahle pistons
bored and honed with tq plates
all arp bolts
custom comtec gaskets or equivalent

and all rotating parts balanced
forged rods and race class bearings fitted with the clearance intended for your use

plus the use of modern coatings in places of high friction, temp and pressure
esp if going for 400hp
imo

BTW
no one stays at 300whp
i certainly didn't
#246707
Alen wrote:What is going on ladies!

Build is picking up again after some crazy delays.

Rotating assembly scheduled to get balanced next week!


welcome back

i spent some extra money here

for a super balance job
[was intending to turn 7500 rpm,
however
went high tq for track use rather than high hp for drags,
hp went from 394 to 361 , but tq at streetable rpm went as high as 370 ft lbs]

result was a super smooth street car even with bsr and solid mounts
#246716
most of the complaints i have seen
involve joe using other shops to build the engines

proline was great he has since found other suppliers
not all of them have been consistent

so they change a lot

joe gets stuck as the middle man on work he did not do

imo
go direct for the engine

any reliable engine builder will be held accountable
if bought direct

add a middle man

and everybody points the finger else where when something goes wrong

just my experience
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