2007-2012
#246528
Regardless of the CAI application, there is always the chance of water getting on/in the intake.

IMO, SRI seems to be a better choice for
both ease of installation and service.
But both intakes suffer from the same problem.... Wet filters.

So, I guess its more of a personal preference on which to use.

I totally agree that you shouldn't go buy a whole new intake now that you have this one.
Maybe the water shield is a good low cost choice to try.
#246529
Mbrice420 wrote:Regardless of the CAI application, there is always the chance of water getting on/in the intake.

IMO, SRI seems to be a better choice for
both ease of installation and service.
But both intakes suffer from the same problem.... Wet filters.

So, I guess its more of a personal preference on which to use.

I totally agree that you shouldn't go buy a whole new intake now that you have this one.
Maybe the water shield is a good low cost choice to try.


Yep, exposed filters suffer from the same things. Probably why stock they're in boxes. I'll get another filter and the sock... might remedy it.
#246619
Alright, the long endeavor has come to an end (hopefully). Finally fixed the rotational alignment and the issue with the projectors aiming too low. Saturday I started the "surgery" but I had to abandon the car mid Saturday because the family wanted to go to Disney World... O.o So, I sucked it up and said, "sure.... let's go..." Come back Sunday and continued where I left off and didn't finish till Tuesday due to curing time.

So in a nutshell, the PS lamp's JB Weld Quikset (Clear) wan't withstanding the temperatures of up to 140F (estimated via google search) The package never indicates how much heat it can hold so, there was never any way to determine how much heat it could hold. The projector became loose (PS only) and both had the issue of aiming lower than what they were suppose to. Also, upon removing everything again I came up with some snags being that the adhesive started to run up the locking nuts and the bulb nut and made things tough to remove. While removing everything the shroud took some abuse so I had to repaint them.

All in all the cut off and alignment are waaaaaaaaaaaaay better, not perfect but acceptable... only problem I'm seeing that there is a dark spot between the two cutoff step (the middle). It's noticeable but can be ignored(get use to). Seems like it's a common occurrence with both the Mini D2S line and Mini H1 projectors.

Original JB Weld 24hr curing (4-6hr setting time @ 80F) (Max 600F it could withstand)
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Changed my filter while I was at it, since I had the bumper and lamps off even with a tarp covering everything the rain finally did the filter in.
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Changed and hydroshield
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You'll see the different steps on the projected line where the dark spot it, but WAAAAAAAAAAAAY better than stock and better than where I had it.
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The cutoff is ridiculously sharp.... maybe too sharp.
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The camera doesn't do it justice due to the ambient light so the blinkers can be barely seen as opposed to seeing it with your eyes they pop out a lot.
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Comparison to the wife's stock projectors
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#246629
Mbrice420 wrote:Awesome sauce bro :thumbup:

Glad you got them how you want it.
Damn sexy 8-)

Was wiring it all up to the factory difficult?


Ty kind sir, last night I did some tweaking of the alignment of the projectors brought them up a bit and the long distant lighting you virtually don't see the dark spot as much and it lights up the road way better. Now, I'm more happy with how things came out! :D

As far as the difficulty it just finding which cables do what. On the depo lamps a lot of the wiring is similar in color. I wasn't able to get the hi-beam to work because the H13 bulb switch filaments when triggered, hi to low low to hi. I deleted the stock blinker and left the low filament active, when I signal the shroud only signals then goes back to DRL mode. I used a relay for the two HID's on the headlamps and did dedicated lines for the fogs. there is no bulbs on the side markers since it's painted black so, no point in having them on. I used their wires for the - and + for the DRL... unfortunately we don't have an auto feature so the DRL are not automatic... I manual switch em on/off etc. I put back the fogs to factory spec... no more when when parking lights are on.
#246671
I'm totally okay with this :D
#246698
Thanks guys! Well worth the effort, it's like being able to see again. I might have to take them out again to see if the bulbs are seated correctly. I'm having doubts that the spring probably came out of the bulb locking nut thus creating a little flickering as I take bumps. The car is uber stiff so, I notice that a lot on the reflection of other cars, even engine vibration shows.
#246762
I believe the projector weight on the PS lamp is bringing down the alignment... Since the car is so rigid the weight of it might be doing this... Plus, the dark spot I mentioned before gets on my nerves when this happens... So, I put the cutt-off line like stairs instead of a straight line. I remember seeing something on sylvania's site where the lamps are projected this way as a LHD vehicle... but everyone is putting it level (how it should be... hopefully it won't bother anyone (on-coming traffic) but completely removed the dark spot hehe....

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#246774
HyBr1D wrote:Barry, let me have your insight... for cost-affective/reliability/power (looking for this rare balance) would you say working on what you got (MR20) or swapping in a QR25? (This is both involving going 6MT swap)


IF talking turbo
reliability goes out the window

na is the best reliability

depending on power needs
a 180-200 whp qr NA imo would be the most reliable

and about the same power a a turboed mr20 low boost motor
cost about the same imo
but with less reliability

i would drive the vq to la instantly
don't believe the turbo would make it
lol


imo
Last edited by yogib777 on Thu May 24, 2018 11:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
#246776
I know adding a turbo to a NA motor reduces it's life span... depending on how much power you're demanding will determine where the balance teeters to.

If you put both NA motors QR25DE vs MR20DE and desired power is @ 300whp... so, the equation for comparing the two would be to start looking in the aftermarket which Treadstone would be the tested(R&D) kit for the QR and none for the MR.... Even though reliability goes out the window it would be a safer bet and far more reliable to go the QR25DE+T (TS) than making a custom turbo build for the MR20... and the MR20 will need to be rebuilt to even try to increase the reliability balance one does desire.

In terms of pricing, I haven't seen that the Treadstone kit for the QR ever had problems at intended sales point on stock internals... BUT if the purchaser wants to push the car further on stock internals then you're subjected to blowing it up. Which is why one would consider going deeper into their pockets regardless of the tested turbo kit from the brand manufacturer to cover your own arse. Building it specifically for turbo application would increase reliability while creating room for play (more PSI, but still run the risk of blowing it up.)

I don't think anyone one (with the right mind) doesn't consider the risks of adding a turbo to an NA motor. So, if one's budget is (example) 10K to drop on a build and the TS application one would be looking into the new/used QR25 motor (for swap) getting it built, putting it in/on the chassis... breaking it in... testing the various components for flawlessness... then turbo application + tune and countless dynos... (I'm sure I'm missing things inbetween...

In my opinion the QR would be the lest expensive and easier to do than that of a non-tested MR20 motor which will need more love to make sure it doesn't blow even with a low boost application. The only good thing we can factor is, I already have the MR and don't have to swap anything so, the MR already has a 5K advantage... no? lol.
#246785
HyBr1D wrote:I know adding a turbo to a NA motor reduces it's life span... depending on how much power you're demanding will determine where the balance teeters to.

If you put both NA motors QR25DE vs MR20DE and desired power is @ 300whp... so, the equation for comparing the two would be to start looking in the aftermarket which Treadstone would be the tested(R&D) kit for the QR and none for the MR.... Even though reliability goes out the window it would be a safer bet and far more reliable to go the QR25DE+T (TS) than making a custom turbo build for the MR20... and the MR20 will need to be rebuilt to even try to increase the reliability balance one does desire.

In terms of pricing, I haven't seen that the Treadstone kit for the QR ever had problems at intended sales point on stock internals... BUT if the purchaser wants to push the car further on stock internals then you're subjected to blowing it up. Which is why one would consider going deeper into their pockets regardless of the tested turbo kit from the brand manufacturer to cover your own arse. Building it specifically for turbo application would increase reliability while creating room for play (more PSI, but still run the risk of blowing it up.)

I don't think anyone one (with the right mind) doesn't consider the risks of adding a turbo to an NA motor. So, if one's budget is (example) 10K to drop on a build and the TS application one would be looking into the new/used QR25 motor (for swap) getting it built, putting it in/on the chassis... breaking it in... testing the various components for flawlessness... then turbo application + tune and countless dynos... (I'm sure I'm missing things inbetween...

In my opinion the QR would be the lest expensive and easier to do than that of a non-tested MR20 motor which will need more love to make sure it doesn't blow even with a low boost application. The only good thing we can factor is, I already have the MR and don't have to swap anything so, the MR already has a 5K advantage... no? lol.


yes

and that 5 k would need to go into:
a built specifically for turbo long block

at least 1 to 2 k for tuning alone
[ask me how i know, i have 40 plus hours of dyno runs, my car was broken in on the dyno]


seems pretty even to me

remember my built long block was just under 5k


may i suggest a slightly different route
something i have actually seen done and raced around with

few would wish to run with shanover and me
with 360whp cars in dragon mode

this guy did
with ease

he used a qr20
yes a qr 20

from japan with about 40k miles on it
for 350 bucks plus shipping

added the treadstone kit
at 8lb boost

what a blast
stayed with us even on the straights

he did what i would do
except joe hid it and locked it at 16lb

he kept moving up the boost
somewhere about[by guess] 12lb
boom

still got to drive it home
broke a ring land

i would guess 260hp at 8lb
and slightly over 300 at 10lb

at 12lb?????

still needs an excellent tune
but costs probably will run closer to 500 bucks for tuning here

imo

KJG810 on b15u
1st car in line
ImageDSCN1727 by Barry Belgard, on Flickr
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