2007-2012
#246528
Regardless of the CAI application, there is always the chance of water getting on/in the intake.

IMO, SRI seems to be a better choice for
both ease of installation and service.
But both intakes suffer from the same problem.... Wet filters.

So, I guess its more of a personal preference on which to use.

I totally agree that you shouldn't go buy a whole new intake now that you have this one.
Maybe the water shield is a good low cost choice to try.
#246529
Mbrice420 wrote:Regardless of the CAI application, there is always the chance of water getting on/in the intake.

IMO, SRI seems to be a better choice for
both ease of installation and service.
But both intakes suffer from the same problem.... Wet filters.

So, I guess its more of a personal preference on which to use.

I totally agree that you shouldn't go buy a whole new intake now that you have this one.
Maybe the water shield is a good low cost choice to try.


Yep, exposed filters suffer from the same things. Probably why stock they're in boxes. I'll get another filter and the sock... might remedy it.
#246619
Alright, the long endeavor has come to an end (hopefully). Finally fixed the rotational alignment and the issue with the projectors aiming too low. Saturday I started the "surgery" but I had to abandon the car mid Saturday because the family wanted to go to Disney World... O.o So, I sucked it up and said, "sure.... let's go..." Come back Sunday and continued where I left off and didn't finish till Tuesday due to curing time.

So in a nutshell, the PS lamp's JB Weld Quikset (Clear) wan't withstanding the temperatures of up to 140F (estimated via google search) The package never indicates how much heat it can hold so, there was never any way to determine how much heat it could hold. The projector became loose (PS only) and both had the issue of aiming lower than what they were suppose to. Also, upon removing everything again I came up with some snags being that the adhesive started to run up the locking nuts and the bulb nut and made things tough to remove. While removing everything the shroud took some abuse so I had to repaint them.

All in all the cut off and alignment are waaaaaaaaaaaaay better, not perfect but acceptable... only problem I'm seeing that there is a dark spot between the two cutoff step (the middle). It's noticeable but can be ignored(get use to). Seems like it's a common occurrence with both the Mini D2S line and Mini H1 projectors.

Original JB Weld 24hr curing (4-6hr setting time @ 80F) (Max 600F it could withstand)
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Changed my filter while I was at it, since I had the bumper and lamps off even with a tarp covering everything the rain finally did the filter in.
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Changed and hydroshield
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You'll see the different steps on the projected line where the dark spot it, but WAAAAAAAAAAAAY better than stock and better than where I had it.
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The cutoff is ridiculously sharp.... maybe too sharp.
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The camera doesn't do it justice due to the ambient light so the blinkers can be barely seen as opposed to seeing it with your eyes they pop out a lot.
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Comparison to the wife's stock projectors
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#246629
Mbrice420 wrote:Awesome sauce bro :thumbup:

Glad you got them how you want it.
Damn sexy 8-)

Was wiring it all up to the factory difficult?


Ty kind sir, last night I did some tweaking of the alignment of the projectors brought them up a bit and the long distant lighting you virtually don't see the dark spot as much and it lights up the road way better. Now, I'm more happy with how things came out! :D

As far as the difficulty it just finding which cables do what. On the depo lamps a lot of the wiring is similar in color. I wasn't able to get the hi-beam to work because the H13 bulb switch filaments when triggered, hi to low low to hi. I deleted the stock blinker and left the low filament active, when I signal the shroud only signals then goes back to DRL mode. I used a relay for the two HID's on the headlamps and did dedicated lines for the fogs. there is no bulbs on the side markers since it's painted black so, no point in having them on. I used their wires for the - and + for the DRL... unfortunately we don't have an auto feature so the DRL are not automatic... I manual switch em on/off etc. I put back the fogs to factory spec... no more when when parking lights are on.
#246671
I'm totally okay with this :D
#246698
Thanks guys! Well worth the effort, it's like being able to see again. I might have to take them out again to see if the bulbs are seated correctly. I'm having doubts that the spring probably came out of the bulb locking nut thus creating a little flickering as I take bumps. The car is uber stiff so, I notice that a lot on the reflection of other cars, even engine vibration shows.
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