Moderators: B17 Moderator, B16 Moderator

#226899
I actually modified the hose that was connected to the resonator and ran it back into the port where the cap was inserted. Cut a hole in the cap the size of the hose, then sealed around it with black rtv silicon. Worked for me. Anybody feel free to correct me if this may cause problems down the road.
#239675
I know this is an old post, but I stumbled upon it looking up info on the B16 Spec-V intakes. I wasn't getting any good answers to this so last weekend I took my factory intake setup apart for an analysis. As mentioned before that 'upper resonator' doesn't really seem to be doing much harm to the air flow, looks like it's doing something important. A closer look reveals that 'snorkel' thingy going to the front of the hood is the biggest restriction in conjunction with that resonator hiding in the wheel well it connects to. That snorkel piece has multiple air pockets as well as a hole in the bottom I can imagine it not helpful with airflow. I guess my conclusion is the simplest way to theoretically 'get the most out of your Stock Air Box' would be to pop the snorkel off. Pretty much creating a ghetto knock-off the of the K&N Typhoon.

Another thing I found interesting was the K&N and Injen intakes employ this upper box as well, so guessing that these $300+ systems were engineered to utilize it, maybe it's a good idea to not touch it. If anyone had the time and nerdy fortitude to actually do a dyno on deleting this upper box before and after, My money would say the loss would be negligible. For what it's worth I popped the snorkel out and I'm evaluating the differences, not feeling any more 'power' but there is a noticeable grunt at WoT that sounds fairly badass.

Also I've had experience with 'homemade' intakes in the past, removing the vacuum/PCV lines and replacing with one of those breathers didn't work out so well. At first everything seems like sunshine and rainbows, but over time things start acting funny.
Last edited by eXcude on Fri Oct 07, 2016 10:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
#239816
So far so good on removing the 'lower part' and preserving the 'upper part'. Not trying to be a Douche McLouche but I would like to point out #1 it's safer to keep that upper "air box" and #2 it's free to rip this out:

IMG_20160507_203939.jpg


As you can see you are removing more resonators in the process. This includes the hidden airbox in the fender as well as 4-5 air pockets in the snorkel.
#239879
So i did this today and a couple things i noticed right away was throatier intake sound/exhaust. good things. One odd thing i did notice was my idle is now roughly 100RPM higher than before. Anyone else notice this when they did this? Heres a pic...
Attachments
IMG_0380.JPG
#239882
HawkFanSE-R wrote:So i did this today and a couple things i noticed right away was throatier intake sound/exhaust. good things. One odd thing i did notice was my idle is now roughly 100RPM higher than before. Anyone else notice this when they did this? Heres a pic...


Any idea how these cars get their 'idle air' ? Maybe that threw off the calibration? I'm not touching that upper part, not worth the risk IMO.
#242519
im going to go ahead and say without looking at it that the resonator spoken of in this how to is actually a type of catch can and that the other side is connected to the intake manifold.
if it's not then it could still cause a vacuum leak as it's unmetered air throwing off your maf readings as opposed to the O2 readings. resulting in a higher idle
#247068
eXcude wrote:I know this is an old post, but I stumbled upon it looking up info on the B16 Spec-V intakes. I wasn't getting any good answers to this so last weekend I took my factory intake setup apart for an analysis. As mentioned before that 'upper resonator' doesn't really seem to be doing much harm to the air flow, looks like it's doing something important. A closer look reveals that 'snorkel' thingy going to the front of the hood is the biggest restriction in conjunction with that resonator hiding in the wheel well it connects to. That snorkel piece has multiple air pockets as well as a hole in the bottom I can imagine it not helpful with airflow. I guess my conclusion is the simplest way to theoretically 'get the most out of your Stock Air Box' would be to pop the snorkel off. Pretty much creating a ghetto knock-off the of the K&N Typhoon.

Another thing I found interesting was the K&N and Injen intakes employ this upper box as well, so guessing that these $300+ systems were engineered to utilize it, maybe it's a good idea to not touch it. If anyone had the time and nerdy fortitude to actually do a dyno on deleting this upper box before and after, My money would say the loss would be negligible. For what it's worth I popped the snorkel out and I'm evaluating the differences, not feeling any more 'power' but there is a noticeable grunt at WoT that sounds fairly badass.

Also I've had experience with 'homemade' intakes in the past, removing the vacuum/PCV lines and replacing with one of those breathers didn't work out so well. At first everything seems like sunshine and rainbows, but over time things start acting funny.



I relinquish this statement after doing a little more research. Recently this box broke on me, the part that mounts it to the engine cracked. I had always been under the impression this was a catch can for the PCV system. I checked out Nissan's part site and found this, it is nothing but a part of the intake system. It is in fact just a decorative resonator. So I will be using this method outlined in the guide, but not using a bottle cap. That's a bit to ghetto for me :D

Here's mine:
IMAG0597.jpg


IMAG0598.jpg
#247083
Kinda does, I'll be posting up some stuff here once I figure it out.
#247112
So I did this and seems to be happy:

$3 plumbing part from Lowes:
Plug.jpg


Before:
Before.jpg


It was a perfect fit and I used channel locks to screw it into the hole:
After1.jpg

After2.jpg
#247119
We have 2 crankcase vents, this one does not go into the PCV.
#247125
If you take the cover off you'll see it, it's where the PCV valve screws into the valve cover.

I think it was 1.5", I can't remember exactly.
#247126
PVC-location.png
#247185
Alright folks another work around for this.

2 parts at Lowes:
Part #84639
Part #877076

Here we are testing out the fit on my stock intake tube:
IMAG0800.jpg

IMAG0801.jpg


Here we are installing into the car:
IMAG0802.jpg

IMAG0803.jpg

IMAG0806.jpg


I actually didn't need the hose I bought, the OEM tube was a perfect fit. I recommend using plumbers tape when screwing the 2 parts together.

And you're welcome :D
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